Houston's culinary scene is about to get a major shake-up! The masterminds behind the acclaimed Japanese restaurants Kira and Neo are launching a new concept, and it's not what you might expect. Prepare to have your expectations challenged because Oru, slated to open in the Heights on November 18th at 746 W 24th St., is taking a different path.
Remember Kira's and Neo's meticulously curated, set-menu tasting experiences? Well, Oru is flipping the script. While maintaining the same commitment to high-quality ingredients and exquisite flavors, Oru introduces an à la carte menu, allowing diners to build their own culinary adventure. Chefs Luis Mercado and Paolo Justo are at the helm, promising a fusion of traditional Japanese techniques with global influences. Think Japanese precision meets international flair – a culinary marriage that's already generating buzz.
You'll find evidence of this exciting fusion in dishes like the Texas barbecue trout and a mind-bending wagyu A5 "reverse beef wellington." (More on that Wellington in a moment – it's truly something special!) This approach, according to the restaurant's announcement, empowers guests to curate their own dining experience, while still benefiting from the chef's dedication to using pristine ingredients and employing delicate techniques that define the omakase experience. Essentially, they're democratizing fine dining, giving you the reins without sacrificing quality. But here's where it gets controversial... Some purists might argue that true omakase requires the chef's complete control to achieve a harmonious balance. What do you think?
And this is the part most people miss: Oru isn't abandoning the omakase experience entirely. For those seeking the chef's guidance, Oru will also offer an 8-course omakase and a luxurious 12-course premium omakase. So, you get the best of both worlds: the freedom to explore or the comfort of a curated journey. The full à la carte menu is extensive, featuring a caviar and roe service, soups and salads, hot and cold dishes, a diverse selection of sushi, and a tempting array of desserts, teas, and sake.
Now, about that "reverse beef wellington": Imagine a delicate slice of wagyu, enveloping a deep-fried egg roll filled with a rich mushroom duxelle. It's an explosion of textures and flavors, a testament to the chefs' innovative approach. Other highlights include Masu nigiri with Recado Negro and Purslane, a combination that promises an earthy and herbaceous delight. And for the adventurous palate, there's the banana and caviar ice cream, pairing roasted banana with a Thai wild banana puree and Osetra caviar – a sweet, savory, and utterly unexpected indulgence. Could this be the dish that divides diners?
Renderings of Oru's interior reveal a minimalist aesthetic, anchored by a large, square sushi bar. The ambiance is intimate, creating a space where diners can connect with the food and the experience. Just a word of caution: you might find yourself admiring your neighbor's dish! And a personal plea: please don't judge my sushi-eating technique. (I still haven't recovered from a similar incident at Doko in Autry Park.)
Ultimately, Oru represents a bold step for Comma Hospitality. It's a departure from their established formula, but one that promises to be equally captivating. It's a gamble, but one that could pay off handsomely, attracting both seasoned sushi aficionados and curious newcomers. Will Oru's à la carte approach resonate with Houston diners? Will the fusion of flavors impress or overwhelm? And most importantly, will the banana and caviar ice cream become a cult classic or a culinary curiosity? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below!
